Milkman is a novel by Anna Burns. It won the Booker. It is a book. It's a book about a place, a place which is not named, but we know where it is because its divisions, borders, red lines, call them what you may, are currency in its social divide and international renown. It's a place that's part of somewhere else, or isn't, depending on your view of history, even though it's the present, its present that is the only relevant place to inhabit. There is another place over the border, and, yes, another one over the water, but in the past those from over there have often been this side of the ditch to leave their marks and then go home again, or not, which is at the root of the problems of this place with its border, its division, its divides, this side of the water. Like anywhere, there are people throughout to this place, but, unlike almost everywhere, they very rarely have names, or if they have them, they don’t want to use them, believing, clearly, that the name would incriminate, accuse, label, even identify in this situation where to be known always carries risks. If you are Milkman, or even a milkman, you can live with the label, possibly because it strikes fear into those who hear it, fear of association, or of reprisal, or of identification, or even of not getting your pinta. That's what the capital letter can do, or undo, if you don't have one, just one, at the start, making one a name and the other, well, a name, but not a name to identify, only a name to label. But then there are lots of labels this side of the water. There are labels above all others, which might determine where you live, might reveal what you believe, might dictate where you might walk, and where you might not, where you might drink, or buy chips, where the rest of the shop snubs you and you might even forget to pay, for your chips, of course, for you are always likely to pay, eventually, in other ways. It's these labels that make you walk faster through the ten-minute zone that divides the divisions, the road where you are being watched, counted, logged, photographed, recorded, identified as identifiable, in the future as well as in the present, which itself will become a permanent past if your name, still unspoken, receives the celebrity of appearing on someone’s file. Unless, of course, you are that Somebody McSomebody who is already known, already logged, already identified, probably already filed, in which case that Somebody McSomebody would probably not want to be seen, not want to venture into that ten-minute no-somebody's land, not anybody's land, that works like the border between over there and over here or the ditch between over here and over the water, keeping apart, keeping division. Unless, of course you are family, in which case you are known as brother or sister and by number, first, second, third etc., or you are known intergenerationally, like mama or papa or granddad, who might even still have a name, like one of your brothers, which is better not said in any case, being that it would be recognized, labelled, identified or merely chiseled into a headstone. That's always the risk, especially when your family is known to be sympathetic to causes unspoken in private but inevitably adopted in public, because the photographs, the records, the files prove you still live over there, on that side of the ten-minute zone that marks the division. And, when you have decided who you are or who you might become, should you agree to continue to see a milkman or other for the purpose of something other than acquiring milk, then you need to watch your back to make sure your maybe-boyfriend is not watching you while you are at your deception, which is not deception, because you're not trying to deceive. And then, in the end, you are at the end of the book, which is not really a book, but a train of thoughts, events, thoughts about events, and analyses, rationalizations of the irrational, all inside the head of an eighteen-year-old woman, who happens to come from one side or other of the divide, in the divided land, that's one side of the border and another side of the water ditch that separates it from over there. You have travelled the roads, lived the short lives, felt the threats, been taken to all the places the eighteen-year-old has deemed you will see, felt the confusion life has brought to her life, and experienced the lack of ending that inevitably applies to things that have no end. The only certainty, and this at least is certain, that this book, that actually might not be a book, but thought, experience and imagination, is a worthy Booker and arguably one of the greatest achievements in the history of things that generally are called books.
Tuesday, September 1, 2020
Milkman by Anna Burns
Milkman is a novel by Anna Burns. It won the Booker. It is a book. It's a book about a place, a place which is not named, but we know where it is because its divisions, borders, red lines, call them what you may, are currency in its social divide and international renown. It's a place that's part of somewhere else, or isn't, depending on your view of history, even though it's the present, its present that is the only relevant place to inhabit. There is another place over the border, and, yes, another one over the water, but in the past those from over there have often been this side of the ditch to leave their marks and then go home again, or not, which is at the root of the problems of this place with its border, its division, its divides, this side of the water. Like anywhere, there are people throughout to this place, but, unlike almost everywhere, they very rarely have names, or if they have them, they don’t want to use them, believing, clearly, that the name would incriminate, accuse, label, even identify in this situation where to be known always carries risks. If you are Milkman, or even a milkman, you can live with the label, possibly because it strikes fear into those who hear it, fear of association, or of reprisal, or of identification, or even of not getting your pinta. That's what the capital letter can do, or undo, if you don't have one, just one, at the start, making one a name and the other, well, a name, but not a name to identify, only a name to label. But then there are lots of labels this side of the water. There are labels above all others, which might determine where you live, might reveal what you believe, might dictate where you might walk, and where you might not, where you might drink, or buy chips, where the rest of the shop snubs you and you might even forget to pay, for your chips, of course, for you are always likely to pay, eventually, in other ways. It's these labels that make you walk faster through the ten-minute zone that divides the divisions, the road where you are being watched, counted, logged, photographed, recorded, identified as identifiable, in the future as well as in the present, which itself will become a permanent past if your name, still unspoken, receives the celebrity of appearing on someone’s file. Unless, of course, you are that Somebody McSomebody who is already known, already logged, already identified, probably already filed, in which case that Somebody McSomebody would probably not want to be seen, not want to venture into that ten-minute no-somebody's land, not anybody's land, that works like the border between over there and over here or the ditch between over here and over the water, keeping apart, keeping division. Unless, of course you are family, in which case you are known as brother or sister and by number, first, second, third etc., or you are known intergenerationally, like mama or papa or granddad, who might even still have a name, like one of your brothers, which is better not said in any case, being that it would be recognized, labelled, identified or merely chiseled into a headstone. That's always the risk, especially when your family is known to be sympathetic to causes unspoken in private but inevitably adopted in public, because the photographs, the records, the files prove you still live over there, on that side of the ten-minute zone that marks the division. And, when you have decided who you are or who you might become, should you agree to continue to see a milkman or other for the purpose of something other than acquiring milk, then you need to watch your back to make sure your maybe-boyfriend is not watching you while you are at your deception, which is not deception, because you're not trying to deceive. And then, in the end, you are at the end of the book, which is not really a book, but a train of thoughts, events, thoughts about events, and analyses, rationalizations of the irrational, all inside the head of an eighteen-year-old woman, who happens to come from one side or other of the divide, in the divided land, that's one side of the border and another side of the water ditch that separates it from over there. You have travelled the roads, lived the short lives, felt the threats, been taken to all the places the eighteen-year-old has deemed you will see, felt the confusion life has brought to her life, and experienced the lack of ending that inevitably applies to things that have no end. The only certainty, and this at least is certain, that this book, that actually might not be a book, but thought, experience and imagination, is a worthy Booker and arguably one of the greatest achievements in the history of things that generally are called books.
Labels:
book review,
catholic,
conflict,
fiction,
northern ireland,
novel,
protestant,
troubles,
war
Saturday, August 29, 2020
Costa Blanca Arts Update - Sex on the Beach – sculptures by Antoni Miró in Altea
Two years ago, artist Antoni Miró exhibited a series of sculptures around Valencia’s old port district. Opinion at the time was divided about his work, with some convinced that these images in bronze outline were just too risqué for public view. Further south, on the Costa Blanca, almost all seafront bars offer a cocktail called Sex On The Beach, so surely these works can find a home among Altea’s beach promenade!
Antoni Miró is a prolific artist. He is based in a
small town near Alcoi, inland from Alicante in Spain’s Communidad Valenciana. He
works mainly at night and incessantly. He paints. He sculpts. He works on
canvas, in ceramic, metal and with found objects. He works with computer
graphics, and often mixes techniques and media in a single work. He produces
images which often include contemporary themes, political ideas, social issues,
images from film, history, conflict, popular culture, daily life and anything
else that catches his eye. But these images are often transformed by colour, choice
of media or context, often by simple juxtaposition, so the message is transformed,
amplified and thus communicated in an intellectually challenging way, and
always visually arresting.
These particular works on display in Altea are bronze sculptures.
In some ways they are a set of positive and negative images because of the way
they have been conceived and created. A simple way to visualize this idea is to
imagine a sheet of paper having an image cut out. Then imagine working at the
cut-out to add more detail. Next display the cut-out next to the original sheet
which, of course, has a space the same shape as the image. Now repeat with a
large bronze plate. Good luck.
And so for each positive cut-out shape, there is also
a negative, rectangular sheet outlining the shaped space. The effect is doubly
interesting. The positive images have detail incised, so they reveal something
of their setting through themselves. The negatives, obviously, provide an image-shaped
experience of their setting, an image-shaped window opening onto the
environment that contains them. The results are captivating.
But what caused the divided opinions in Valencia was
the works’ subject matter. For this Antoni Miró turned to images he found
illustrated on ancient Greek pottery, and some of these are highly erotic.
Hence my title, Sex on the Beach. The artist, meanwhile, likes to remind
everyone that these images are based on originals that are 2,500 years old. In
many respects, human beings possibly have not changed much in that time, and
that may be the point. Indeed, some of the sculptures have been damaged by
vandals. It seems that some people in Altea objected to the content of these
images, an opinion that automatically endowed a few of those same individuals
with the right to mangle some of the work. Lists of cocktails were not attacked,
apparently.
But there is much more to Antoni Miró’s work than mere
controversy. Works in other locations
throughout the town illustrate the breadth of this artist’s vision. In the
space in front of the Palau Altea, the town’s impressive concert venue, there
are other positive-negative bronzes inspired by the paintings of Magritte, that
might equally be Stan Laurel. There is an immovable bicycle parked on a plinth,
its handlebars transformed into a single wing-like shape that suggests flight,
while nearby its negative outline pierces its bronze plate, affording a
bicycle-shaped view of the University of Alicante’s Fine Arts Faculty behind,
an image that in itself does not normally provoke violent reaction.
Antoni Miró’s art sits firmly in the melting pot of
contemporary Spanish art, though he himself might prefer the label Catalan, or
Valencian. It approaches photorealism at times, but is suffused with surrealism,
the comment of Goya and the almost explosive still-life of the baroque. But it
is also intellectually rigorous, thought-provoking and vivid, often so much so
that it provokes reaction. And this reaction is not about the art’s
abstraction, it is a rejection of its realism. Now there is something novel.
Labels:
altea,
antoni miro,
art,
bronze,
costa blanca,
erotic,
sculpture
Tuesday, August 25, 2020
The Narrow Road to the Deep North by Richard Flanagan
The Narrow Road to the Deep North by Richard
Flanagan won the Booker prize for 2014, an award that was probably deserved.
Much has been made of the author’s a relationship with his father, who was a
prisoner of war in southeast Asia when the Japanese were building their
railroad to the north using forced labor. Approaching the book as a tale of
this war time experience would be a mistake, however. The personal experience
of the 1940s is most certainly there, but it is by no means the totality of the
book.
On the contrary, The Narrow Road to the Deep
North presents several lives in all their contemporary complexity. The style is
varied, sometimes disturbingly disconnected.
Often there are short sentences delivered like punches, and then long
passages that seem to meditate around the perimeters of their interest, perhaps
without seeming to engage in content. But don't take any of this as criticism
(except, of course, in the literary sense): it's merely an attempt at observation
and description. When a reader approaches a book, it's often useful to know
what not to expect.
A character who remain central to the novel is
an individual called Dorrigo Evans. We follow his life, his loves and, to some
extent, his profession. Married to Ella, he loves Amy. And, for Dorrigo Evans,
it seems that however fleeting the thought, however inconsequential the
encounter, it is destined to be remembered, to be recorded and then recalled
when least considered, if, and only if, Dorrigo Evans chooses to do so. Thus,
life seems to aggregate around these characters to create a shell of allusion,
association and chance, mixed with a fixer of self.
The wartime experiences are indeed central,
however. They are not a blow-by-blow account of conflict, nor of the
confinement which ensues after capture. There is something of the day-to-day
suffering via forced labor and deprivation that these men suffered, some in the
extreme, but more important is the continual challenge of survival, the daily
challenge of reaching tomorrow. How these men cope with their privatization is
central to Richard Flanagan's approach. And by the end of their captivity,
everyone involved remains forever changed, forever scarred by the experience.
Except for the legion who died, of course, for perhaps they were by then beyond
suffering.
It's not a one-sided account, by the way.
Richard Flanagan attempts to enter the minds of the captors, the Japanese
soldiers who are responsible for creating the conditions that impose suffering
on the captives. The attempt is not totally convincing, but the story of the
Korean guard, conscripted to do Japan's dirty work, with the same level of
choice as the captives he helps to torture and who is eventually tried for war
crimes, is one of the most successful, powerful and memorable aspects of her
book. And then there is the amputation episode… Realism rears its features
here, and they are vivid.
The Narrow Road to the Deep North is not a novel
that can be reviewed easily. It is complex, involved, subtle and involving.
These are characters – particularly Dorrigo Evans – who seem utterly credible.
We are interested in their lives, because they make mistakes, imagine
themselves in the wrong while doing something right. This makes them as
vulnerable as the real people they never quite become. But they get do on with
it. The Narrow Road to the Deep North by Richard Flanagan is a beautiful book.
Labels:
australia,
book review,
contemporary,
novel,
prisoner of war,
world war two,
WWII
Monday, August 24, 2020
Self-promotion or self-demotion? An emotional observation.
I read quite a lot. I also try to review each
book I read. Sometimes it’s a cursory mention of themes, settings and plot,
just enough just to keep the memory alive. I find it helps, because with the help
of these little clues I often find that some time after finishing a book I suddenly
understand it better after re-reading the review and thereby appreciate more
completely what it was trying to say. If, of course, the book had anything to
say!
Usually, my reviews of 500 to 1000 words,
sometimes longer if I decide to include grab-quotes. I keep the reviews in a
commonplace book that I started in August 1973, immediately after some of the
most interesting years of my life when I was an undergraduate in London. These
years are condemned to remain no more than memories, it seems, but the memories
remain strong.
My reviews are rarely judgmental. I am not keen
on star ratings, though some places where I share my reviews demand them. It
seems to me the height of self-delusion to use a single, five-value scale to quantify
eternal opinion on work that might be as diverse as a haiku or Ulysses. Equally
facetious is the banal “I liked it” which, like all clichés, should be avoided
like the plague.
What I try to do, sometimes, is to mimic the
style of the book. This means that reviews of nineteenth century fiction are
longer than those for books from the 20th century. The draft of a recent review
of Middlemarch had so many subordinate clauses, asides and God‘s-eye-view
observations that the first sentence reached 200 words. I remember it made the
point I intended, but I ditched it.
So, with the decades of summary reviewing behind
me, one would have thought that completing an author interview would be a
trivial exercise. But no. I was just ten questions into the process when I
realized I had spent over an hour at the task, and I had written very little
indeed. The process suddenly took on an importance I had not envisaged
developing when I started.
In the final analysis, the book that formed the
basis of the interview, Eileen McHugh, a life remade, must speak for itself.
The review is merely an aide memoire. The book must speak for itself. It will
have to, because trying to express where it came from was a disturbingly cathartic
experience which probably only skirted clarity. The interview is online at https://www.smashwords.com/interview/philipspires.
Labels:
1970s,
art,
eileen mchugh,
fiction,
free ebook,
hippie,
london,
novel,
sculpture
Friday, August 21, 2020
Scott-King's Modern Europe by Evelyn Waugh
Scott-King's Modern Europe
is a short, perhaps over-short novella by Evelyn Waugh. Written in 1946, it
visits a fictitious part of Europe largely unknown to its determinedly English
protagonist. In 1946 Scott-King had been classical master at Grantchester for
twenty-five years, we are told in the tale's first sentence. This locks the
book's principal character firmly in his place within the English class system,
sketches his likely character, with its staid dedication to what has always
been and remains "right", and posits him without doubt in the apolitical
conservatism of an ultimately submissive establishment. It's the kind of
England that used to believe that fog at Dover meant that Europe was cut off.
Thus Waugh presents him to his undoubtedly sympathetic readers.
Out of a non-political blue
comes a request from the little-known and less understood and now independent
state of Neutralia that Scott-King attend a national celebration of a
long-forgotten national poet called Bellorius. The writer died in 1646 and left
a fifteen-hundred-line tract, written in Latin hexameters, of unrelenting
tedium. It described a journey to an unknown new world island, where there
subsisted a virtuous, chaste and reasonable community, Waugh tells us. This
utopia was left forgotten and unread, until it appeared in a German edition in
the twentieth century, a copy of which Scott-King picked up while on holiday
some years ago. Thus the teacher of classics began a relationship with this
European obscurity that led to this invitation to visit his homeland.
Scott-King's Modern Europe
is so short that any more detail of its plot would undermine its reading.
Suffice it to say that the international delegation is not what it seems.
Things do not go to plan, or perhaps do, depending on your perspective on
Neutralian politics, whose internecine struggles could not be further from
anything associated with aloof Britishness, let alone it's higher class
relative, Englishness. Life becomes unbearably complicated for the scrupulously
fair Scott-King. He may, perish the possibility, suffer such ignominy as not
having enough traveller's cheques left to cover his hotel bill!
As the farce develops, the
celebration of Bellorius morphs into something decidedly more contemporary,
whose limits become ever more blurred. Most of those involved are revealed, in
some form or another, as frauds, except of course for the stolid and enduring
Englishman of the title, who throughout remains the epitome of the innocent
victim. If there is fault in the world, then it's all the fault of foreigners,
those who live over there, those who speak the unintelligible languages that
aren't English and live in those unbearable climates that have sunshine. They
do not play fair in politics, and confuse responsibility with gain, All
unthinkable at home, of course...
It all works out in the
end, after a fashion. Let it be recorded here only that, true to the values of
the English Public School where Scott-King has taught, it is a former pupil,
ever loyal, that eventually extracts his former teacher from his troubles. But
what is enduringly interesting about this little book is the depth of the
metaphor that classical education presents. It is a culture in decline. Its
vales are destined not to endure. Inevitably, the values enshrined in the
assumption of this enduringly educated state are set themselves to disappear.
The English surely are going to become like the untrustworthy, squabbling,
divided Neutralians, and all the other foreigners with their unacceptable
strange ways, who previously had only ever lived "over there".
Written at the end of the
second world war, when perhaps mythically the British had stood alone, the book
is perhaps the author's reflection on events that saw the division of Europe
into opposing camps. The territorial integrity of the United Kingdom, and essentially
England within it, had been maintained. But those "over there" we're
still foreign and thankfully they weren’t “over here”. Their values weren't our
values, and yet their influence was all-pervading, or at least potentially so.
Britain, and the English on the throne within it, we're still alone, still
threatened. This is the culture that is suffused throughout Evelyn Waugh's
little book and it is the assumption that makes its reading now at least
poignant. It might even have been written a week ago, based on anyone's list of
presumptions that surrounded the Brexit referendum. Everything that was not an
English value is manifest in this non-culture of Neutralia, a nation that needs
to invent heroes raised from within the mediocrity of its unrecognized and -
even more reprehensible - unrecorded past. How non-English can one get?
Waugh's humour enlivens the
story and his unapologetic Englishness almost renders himself as the principal
character. It's is short enough to be read in an hour, but it's sentiment and
message will resonate very strongly with contemporary readers. In Britain's
current political context, Scott-King's Modern Europe is a little book with a
big message.
Wednesday, August 19, 2020
The Children's Book by AS Byatt
The
Children's Book by AS Byatt is a vast, almost rambling novel about several
families and multiple lives. It is the kind of novel where a review must
concentrate on the context and setting and leave out any detail, for there is
far too much of that to do any of it justice. The detail is so extensive that
to include anything in particular would elevate it above its relevance in the
overall scenario. In the end it all hangs together beautifully and the
contrasting, yet similar lives of its characters serve to illustrate the social
mores and concerns of its setting. Multiple characters live through more than
twenty years of their lives and descriptions of specific events happen on every
page. No review could do justice to any part of this veritable tangle of
history and stories. And, more than that, it is the detail of these events and
interrelationships that form the very currency of this work. What happens, and
to whom is happens is important and should not be revealed.
But the setting and the context are important and, since these are part
of a history we all share, then there is no reason not to set them out in some
detail. It is the context, both cultural and political, that this shared
history inhabits that informs what we understand when we read a novel as
complex and profound as this.
We begin in the mid-eighteen-nineties. We are generally among the
professional upper middle classes and bi-locate between London and Kent, with
much more happening out of the city. But it is the then modern Victoria and
Albert Museum where the tale begins with the discovery of a lad called Philip
camping out in the already dusty cellars, where the already massive collection
of objects that cannot be displayed are in storage. Philip seems to have
talent, but then he is a working-class lad from the Potteries, so whatever his
abilities he is unlikely to be taken seriously. He has run away from a poor
home and the bowels of the museum have become a rough home. Until he is
discovered. Luckily, he is embraced by people who would like to help.
Many families inhabit this tale, but crucially it is a woman called
Olive who repeatedly takes centre stage. She is a writer and regularly invents
stories for her children. Ostensibly, these are the children's stories of the
title but, as the book progresses, we realise that the meat of the novel is the
real-life stories that the young people in this assemblage of families enact.
As ever, reality proves to be far more immediate and unpredictable than
imagination, which tends to resort to received worlds that can only exist in an
abstract or ideal form or reconstruct the real thing via fantasy. And it is
fantasy that is so often used to obscure the raw and often inadmissible truth
of real lives.
When Olive writes these stories, her imagined worlds fit the fashions of
the time. And in the 1890s there is much of human life that is only ever
discussed euphemistically, despite its being lived in the flesh. Consequences
are all around but admitting their existence in any explicit way is rarely
possible. They exist only in allusion, even when reality pokes its nose into
the bubble. This particular late Victorian world is that of a liberal middle
class, gently socialist of the Fabian variety, but also imbued with the
conservatism of their social class and their upbringing. One really does not
want to maltreat the lower classes, but really one does get such little
opportunity to demonstrate one's true values. One is conscious, of course, of
the obvious difference in standards of dress, with our polite society ever
conscious of material, colour, accessory, decoration and ensemble. And, of
course, it's never dirty... but one must not judge. One must reform.
But this is also a world where women have become hungry for
emancipation. At the start of this shared history that spans over twenty years,
there are murmurings of desired independence, imaginings of opportunity, dreams
of fulfillment outside the home, the bed and the cradle. The link between the
latter two would only be made in the imagination, of course. Except in reality,
which only rarely obtrudes into discourse, there are skeletons in cupboards,
past excesses that have been denied, encounters that perhaps have been
intimated only in the imagination. But these people are not prepared for the
emotions they feel, nor the natural drives that overtake them. They succumb,
knowing they should not, and then invent fiction and euphemism to explain away
the reality that just occasionally arrests them.
A greater reality is about to absorb them all, however. By the end of
The Children's Story, there have been suffragettes and suffragists, protest,
sabotage, imprisonment and death, all in furtherance of a cause soon to be won.
Ironically, it was perhaps World War One, which also grinds to its grim
conclusion before the end the novel, that brings so much death to the generation
of the children at the start of the book, that guarantees these women will
receive their emancipation, if only to fill a labor shortage.
The majority of The Children's Book describes what might be termed a
family saga involving multiple families either side of an Anglo-German
relationship. The book concerns itself with identity, gender politics and
roles, denied sexuality and eventually passionate reality. There are helpings
of Fabian socialism, arts and crafts and little touches of class difference.
There is always sexual repression married to moments of excess, with its
physical consequences, both social and personal. These are characters who
really do populate the story, and thus make the story in their own terms. None
of these people act out events just so that they can be listed in the book's
experience.
But at the same time, these people remain distant. They never really let
out their feelings, except when they overstate them. Thus, they are of the era
that made them. and we become convinced of their reality, their credibility and
their dilemmas.
The Children's Book is perhaps a little difficult to start. It
introduces many characters and settings in its early chapters. But we do get to
know these people and the process is both gradual and convincing. By the end of
the work, beyond the end of World War One, their lives have been transformed,
though probably not in any way that their safe attitudes at the start might
have imagined. The Children's Book is not a historical novel. It is not a family
saga. It is not a love story or a tragedy. It aspires to no genre. Neither, it
must be stressed, is it general fiction, whatever that might be. It is a novel
that takes its reader into a different time, a different environment and a
different set of social values. And a truly great novel, because, by the end,
we not only feel we have visited different places, but also we have lived in
them.
Labels:
book review,
class,
england,
family,
fiction,
gender,
relationships,
suffragette,
world war one,
WWI
Saturday, August 15, 2020
The Naples Riviera by Herbert M Vaughan
The Naples Riviera by Herbert M Vaughan is a
travel book published in 1908. I read it recently during a trip to Naples,
itself. When using old guide books in contemporary trips, it can happen that
the traveler finds a must-see site has been demolished in the intervening
years, but nowadays a cursory check via a search engine can avoid such
embarrassment. But what can be gleaned from reading what are now historical
accounts of travel is a sense of perspective that is almost always missing from
much tourist literature. Yes, the historical fact is always available, but its
interpretation is always a variable, and it is this variability that
immediately enriches an experience of travel.
Vaughan describes Naples, Amalfi, Sorrento,
Capri, Ischia and the nearby bays as seen at the start of the twentieth
century. His account indicates that these descriptions were contemporary, but
also that they not being experienced for the first time. This is clearly an
experienced traveler. It is interesting to note that he regularly advises that
certain areas have become overpopulated with foreigners, or regularly crowded
with tourists, or more likely to serve an English Sunday lunch than any local
speciality. Gone, perhaps, are the barefoot luggage carriers who are generally
women and who apparently queue up near the ferry hoping to earn a living by
carrying tourists’ suitcases up the hill on their heads. Gone also, perhaps,
are the traditional dances, such as the tarantella, that Vaughan claims the
locals strike up spontaneously at any time of day and in almost any place.
A surprising observation comes early in the
text, when the author refers to the city of Naples, itself, as having been
largely rebuilt, and thus containing predominantly modern buildings. The author
immediately reveals his preference for a particular period of the city’s
history, a preference that looks down on the baroque modernization of Gothic
spaces, perhaps questioning even that the Renaissance should ever have
descended into mannerism.
There is mild surprise when the author lists the
number of places in the Campania region where malaria is either still endemic
or was endemic until just before the account was written. Vaughan then
discusses the possible causes of the disease. A modern reader, when confronted
with the apparent contradictions of contemporary mores, is perhaps gently
surprised. When confronted with the author’s incredulity at the idea of malaria
being spread by mosquitoes, one approaches the state of being flabbergasted.
But the modern search engine can again come into its own to remind the
contemporary traveler that it was less than a decade before the writing of
Vaughan’s book that the causational link had been confirmed. One lives and one
learns.
Sitting in the narrow and sometimes hectic overcrowding
of the matrix of the Spanish quarter near Via Toledo, the contemporary traveler
is often confronted with the rasping noise and the odour of unburnt two-stroke
as motorbikes speed past on what seemed to be collision courses, both with one
another and pedestrians alike. The largely unhelmeted riders remind one of the
fact that Naples was a lucrative market for diagonally striped T-shirts when
the wearing of seat belts in cars became compulsory. One is also minded to
speculate what the experience of Vaughan in the streets might have been without
the noise of the internal combustion engine and the smell of unburnt fuel.
Vaughan of course reminds us that before two wheels there were four legs and
that these modes of transport used to leave different evidence of their
passing, which also had effects on the nose.
When Vaughan visits Pompeii and Herculaneum, his
descriptions are lyrical and vivid. But again the contemporary traveler
realizes that it that the experience of these places in the early twentieth
century was significantly much less than it is now, since much of the
excavation and archaeological work has been done in the intervening century.
Anyone who, like Vaughan, wants to contemplate what life might have been like
in these ancient Roman towns with their single room shops and narrow streets
need only pause for a while in Naples old town or in the Spanish quarter,
where, apart from the motorbikes, life probably looks pretty similar to what
might have been transacted along those ancient streets. From a distance the
city even looks red and yellow, the same colors the decorated most of the
dwellings in the two ruined cities.
Vaughan’s description of Naples Riviera comes
across as surprisingly modern. It confirms that whenever and wherever we travel
it is the experience that matters, the here and now, and crucially how that
changes us, rather than confirms what we expected or anticipated when we
decided to go there. And so it is both refreshing and enlightening to share
another visitor’s insight from a different time as we explore a new any new
experience of travel.
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